Decompression Isn’t Just Sniffing

by Positive Dog | Aug 10, 2022 | General Training, Reactive, Aggressive, or Overexcited Dogs

Decompression Isn’t Just Sniffing

I hike my dogs so that they can go for an extended time using their bodies however feels good to them. They run and jump and crash through the bush, carry sticks, collect pine cones, walk beside me, chase each other, and swim in puddles. It isn’t ‘off’ time – it’s ‘do what feels good’ time.

There is a lot of buzz around the idea of hiking for decompression and the idea that the dog should be trotting around sniffing and being chill. That’s great, and some dogs love that. My dogs get a lot of decompression time in their day-to-day life, and I agree that it is important, but it’s not the only reason to hike.

Use That Body

Dogs, particularly active breeds, need physical activity and challenges. I can play fetch or tug, but those activities are too intense to play for extended periods. I’ll break my dogs if I play disc for two hours straight, but I have no qualms about hiking my dogs for 2 or 3 hours. On a hike, the dog’s body and mind tells them what to do, when to stop, and when to lie down in a puddle. I have one dog that I watch closely as he gets racy when he is tired – I watch for that and long line him. He’s a higher intensity dog and he sometimes runs harder when tired instead of slowing down. This is when knowing your dog is important so that you can help them if they are making poor choices.

Balance

A lot of dogs have the need to challenge their bodies just as much as they need to eat, sleep, and drink water. When we don’t meet this need, we can see a lot of other behaviour problems such as leash reactivity, bullying of other dogs, and destructive behaviour.

There aren’t any recipes or ‘one size fits all’ plans in dog training. Watch your dog, figure out who they are and what they need. Think about balance and be sure you are working both their brains and bodies and teaching them how to be patient and calm when needed.

Relaxation Protocol

by Positive Dog | Aug 1, 2022 | General Training, Reactive, Aggressive, or Overexcited Dogs

Relaxation Protocol

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Relaxation protocols will help your dog navigate many aspects of life, especially when what we want goes against their instincts. These protocols will teach your dog to relax and in place when you move about the house, when a visitor arrives, and when you take your dog out in public. Setting the stage right away for energy control is important. Teaching a dog to relax and be “off duty” is one of the kindest and most useful things we can do for our pets.

Settle

A settle is like a down but with a hip flopped over and it has an implied duration and calmness. You can shape, capturer, or lure this behaviour to start, depending on what works best for your dog’s personality and learning history.

Tip: Place the treats on the ground rather than feeding them to your dog’s mouth. This helps magnetize your dog to the ground rather than keeping their focus up to your hand or pocket.

We will never ask for a settle and then ask for an explosive fast behaviour. For example, we wouldn’t use settle while playing fetch because the expectation for the fun chase will change the energy state of the dog in a settle. If you are playing with multiple dogs, you can use a settle to help one wait. When it is that dog’s turn call them to you and ask for a sit or other behaviour before you begin fetch.

Settle will be your dog’s job when you are vacuuming, when you stop to chat with a neighbour, when a friend pops by to drop off cake, etc. Pay your dog well for this game! Put a lot of value in teaching your dog to relax and you will have a lovely dog who you can take to a friend’s BBQ, to the hardware store, to the bank, or anywhere you like.

Treats

You will use a lot of food to train your dog to relax. You can use your dog’s meals to train or other healthy treats. Use treats that are medium or lower value to keep the energy level down. If your dog isn’t keen on training for food, choose something exciting enough for them to want to play training games. Consider asking for help to train food motivation as this is a common issue that we help people work through. Although we train many skills using toys, toys are not appropriate reinforcers for relaxing as it encourages excitement rather than relaxation.

Examples:

Kibble if your dog eats kibble
Carrots, Peas, Sweet Potato, or other veggies
Beef or lamb lung

Markers

As you complete each step in the protocols calmly say “good” then reach into your treat pouch or pocket and deliver a treat by placing it onto the ground in front of them. Some people choose not to say “good” and that is ok too, the best method depends on your dog’s training history. We advise you not to say “yes” or use a clicker however, as these markers are often paired with upbeat, fast, fun games and can affect the energy of the settle.

Ideally, use a treat pouch or easy to access pocket rather than holding the treats in your hand. This little tip will help transition your dog to listening when you don’t have treats on you and it also helps keep excitable or food crazy dogs a little calmer.

Talking To Your Dog

Please talk to your dog as you work through the protocol if it feels natural to you. Chat with your dog as you might a young child, explaining what you are doing. It is amazing how much talking to them helps some dogs stay calm. You can read more about talking to your dog here: “The Mr. Rogers Hack”

Mat or No Mat?

Some people will choose to use a mat or dog bed when training this protocol. A mat is handy as you can take it with you when you train in new locations and the presence of the mat helps your dog clue into the game a little faster. However, the end goal is typically that you don’t need the mat. Without a mat, you will take more time to help your dog in new locations. If you use a mat you will need to fade the mat out of the training later but the best option varies dog to dog. If you have a very anxious or excitable dog, of if your dog does not like to lie down on cold or hard surfaces, the mat is likely a good option. Raised dog beds, bathmats, and towels make great relaxation mats.

Error Handling

What if your dog gets up during the protocol? Mistakes happen, don’t sweat it. Simply ask your dog to settle again, feed them, and move right back to it.

If your dog gets up once you have two options.

Try the exact scenario again, in case it was just a simple mistake.
Move back a step or two and start again where you know your dog can succeed.

Dogs don’t need to make mistakes in order to learn. My preference for error handling is to move back enough steps that you know your dog can succeed, building up confidence and motivation.

What if your dog gets up twice in a row? Now we really need to be proactive in building confidence and understanding. I suggest you go back to the very beginning of the Basic Protocol. If your pup is still struggling, it is ok to go for a long sniffy walk for you both to decompress, then try again tomorrow.

Credit: Dr Karen Overall

Dr Overall created a Relaxation Protocol that was and is used by trainers all over the world. Along with her other work, it was a fantastic tool for many of us. We have written these updated protocols, based on Dr Overall’s work, to suit our current needs with our students as well as our own dogs. https://www.karenoverall.com/

Basic Protocol

Begin with this protocol and advance it as your dog’s level of understanding increases. Keep the error handling protocol in mind and reinforce many easy reps to keep the momentum going and to build value in relaxing.

Settle for 2 seconds

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle for 10 seconds

Settle for 3 seconds

Settle while you lift one foot off the ground

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle while you take one step

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle for 10 seconds

Settle while you take one step and return

Settle while you clap your hands lightly once

Settle for 10 seconds

Settle for 3 seconds

Settle while you take 2 steps and return

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle while you take one step, count to 3, and return

Settle for 5 seconds

Keys to adding difficulty while building strong, confident behaviours

Always sandwich challenging reps with easy ones. I.e. If 20 seconds is new or challenging for your dog, practice a 3 second rep both before and after the 20 second rep.
If you add a distraction such as a friend sitting on a couch, start over from the beginning.

Take It On The Road

Practice the Basic Protocol at home, in the yard, on your walks, in the park, and anywhere you regularly take your dog. When the distraction level increases by training in a new environment, be sure to start the protocol from the very beginning or as far back as needed for your dog to be very successful.

Teatime Protocol

This protocol is written to help your dog relax in place while you make a cup of tea. This can be modified to include any routine task such as asking your dog to relax while you:

prepare their dinner,
give medication to another pet,
feed the cat, etc.

Begin with the Basic Protocol. Once it is easy, split other daily tasks into small pieces. Splitting big tasks into small achievable tasks is the key to building strong behaviours.

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle for 15 seconds

Settle while you take one step and return

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle while you take two steps and return

Settle for 7 seconds

Settle while you take three steps and return

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle for 10 seconds

Settle while you take three steps, touch the kettle for 1 second, and return to your dog

Settle for 10 seconds

Settle while you take three steps, pick up the kettle for 1 second, and return to your dog

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle while you take three steps, pick up the kettle, take 1 step towards the sink, and return to your dog

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle while you move to the kettle, pick it up, move to the sink, and fill the kettle, then return to your dog

Practice over multiple sessions, only advancing as fast as your dog allows. All dogs learn at different rates, so be patient. Move slow enough that the process has very few errors. This will build a strong, relaxed end behaviour.

Visitors at the Door Protocols

These protocols are written to help your dog relax in place while visitors arrive. Begin with the Basic Protocol and the Teatime Protocol. If the protocols as written are too challenging, break it down into smaller pieces with less duration or less intensity. The right protocol is the one that sets your dog up for success.

Choose a location to settle your dog that is ideally within view of the door, but at least 10’ away.

Train this when you do not have actual visitors. Manage real visitors by putting your dog in a crate or bedroom when they arrive. Once you have completed the protocols, have visitors enter and get comfortable seated, then bring your dog out on leash and practice the Basic Protocol, working up to practicing when visitors arrive.

These protocols are not a behaviour modification program to address fearful or aggressive behaviour from your dog when people arrive. Instead, it is a foundation on top of which a behaviour modification program can be built. If your dog has aggressive or extremely fearful behaviour when people come to the door, please ask for help from a certified professional.

Practice this protocol over multiple sessions, increasing either the length of time that the door is open, or how far you open the door. Do not increase two criteria in one repetition.

For safety, you may tether your dog so that they cannot run out the door. A baby gate between your dog and the door is another great option.

Door Opening Protocol

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle for 15 seconds

Settle while you take two steps towards the door and return

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle while you take three steps towards the door and return

Settle for 10 seconds

Settle while you walk to the door, touch the door for one second, and return to your dog

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle for 10 seconds

Settle while you walk to the door, touch the doorknob for one second, and return to your dog

Settle for 10 seconds

Settle while you walk to the door, open the door 1” for 1 second, and return to your dog

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle while you walk to the door, open the door 1” for 5 seconds, and return to your dog

Settle for 7 seconds

Settle while you walk to the door, open the door 3” for 1 seconds, and return to your dog

Settle for 5 seconds

Practice this protocol over multiple sessions, increasing either the length of time that the door is open or the intensity of the knocking. Do not increase two criteria in one repetition.

For safety, you may tether your dog so that they cannot run out the door. A baby gate between your dog and the door is another great option.

Knocking (Doorbell) Protocol

Before attempting this protocol, complete the Door Opening Protocol and comfortably be able to ask your dog to settle while you fully open the door for 20 seconds. If the protocol as written is too challenging, break it down into smaller pieces with less duration or less intensity. The right protocol is the one that sets your dog up for success.

This protocol is written for knocking at the door, but anytime we write ‘knock’ you can substitute ‘ring the doorbell’. You will not use your actual doorbell to start. Instead, either use YouTube to find doorbell sounds, or record your own doorbell on your phone. It is important at the beginning to control the volume of the doorbell, which you can do using your phone and YouTube or the recording.

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle for 20 seconds

Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice

Settle for 10 seconds

Settle while you walk to the door, touch the doorknob for one second, and return to your dog

Settle for 10 seconds

Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice, then pause for 1 second before returning to your dog.

Settle for 10 seconds

Settle while you walk to the door, open the door fully for 5 seconds, and return to your dog

Settle for 20 seconds

Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice, then pause for 2 seconds before returning to your dog.

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle while you knock a little harder on a wall or table twice, then pause for 2 seconds before returning to your dog.

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle while you walk to the door, open the door fully for 20 seconds, and return to your dog

Settle for 7 seconds

Settle while you walk to the door, knock lightly and return to your dog.

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table, walk to the door, open the door for 2 seconds, and return to your dog.

Practice this protocol over multiple sessions, increasing either the length of time that the door is open or the intensity of the knocking. Do not increase two criteria in one repetition.

For safety, you may tether your dog so that they cannot run out the door. A baby gate between your dog and the door is another great option.

Talking Protocol

Before attempting this protocol, complete the Knocking (Doorbell) Protocol and comfortably be able to ask your dog to settle while you knock loudly, walk to the door, and fully open the door for 20 seconds. If the protocol as written is too challenging, break it down into smaller pieces with less duration or less intensity. The right protocol is the one that sets your dog up for success.

Think about the phrases you are likely to use when you have visitors. Use your natural language in the protocol rather than the generic ones we include.

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle while you say “Hi! Come on in!”

Settle for 20 seconds

Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice

Settle for 10 seconds

Settle while you walk to the door, open the door for 5 seconds, and return to your dog

Settle for 10 seconds

Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice, say “Come on in!”, then pause for 1 second and return to your dog.

Settle for 10 seconds

Settle while you knock, say “Hi Joan!”, walk to the door, open the door fully for 15 seconds, and return to your dog

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice, say “Hi Bob!”, then pause for 2 seconds and return to your dog.

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle while you knock a little harder on a wall or table twice, say “Come on in!” then pause for 2 seconds before returning to your dog.

Settle for 5 seconds

Settle while you walk to the door, open the door fully for 20 seconds, say “Hi, thank you for the pizza!”, and return to your dog

Settle for 7 seconds

Settle while you knock, walk to the door, open the door fully for 20 seconds, say “Hi, thank you for the pizza!”, and return to your dog

Settle for 5 seconds

Surprise!

Once you have completed the protocols, integrate the surprise factor. When your dog isn’t expecting training, knock or speak to an imaginary visitor, ask them to settle on their bed, and rehearse a few repetitions. Practice this no more than twice a day, and balance it with non-surprise sessions.

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Talk To Your Dog

by Positive Dog | Aug 1, 2022 | General Training, Reactive, Aggressive, or Overexcited Dogs

Have you had a trainer tell you not to talk to your dog so much? Or maybe you have seen a meme floating around recently telling people not to talk to their dogs? Sometimes I agree. If you are training focus or verbal cues, you likely don’t want to clutter things with unnecessary mumbo jumbo. However, talking to your dog about what is going on in the world, the plan for the next little bit, etc. can be a great help for anxious or excitable dogs.

Plus, it’s kind of cool when our dog knows words. Many dogs know “walk” or “dinner” or “ball” because those words are said in association with the activity on a regular basis. Check out this great PDF on “The Mr. Rogers Hack” i.e. talking to your dog similarly to how Mr. Rogers talked to young children.

Benefits Of Stationing

by Positive Dog | Jan 31, 2022 | General Training, Reactive, Aggressive, or Overexcited Dogs

Benefits Of Stationing

Nervous dog? Excitable Dog? Reactive Dog?

Stationing is when we ask our dog to get onto a thing and stay there for a period of time. Typically we ask for four paws up, but this can be done with two paws up, a down, a sit, or whatever is most useful for you and your dog. We use this a lot for dogs who need help being calm, confident, or focused while out in the world or when a lot is going on around them.

Teach it at home first. As your dog to climb onto as many surfaces as you can think of: a pillow, a couch cushion, a coffee table, an upside down pot, an upside down laundry basket, a planter.. you get the idea. You can lure your dog with cookies or shape it if you prefer to train that way. It is important that you don’t pull, push, or place your dog on the item though – the whole point of this game is for them to learn to climb on themselves. Pay them well! (Many Cookies)

Check Out Our Stationing Webinar

Environmentally Sensitive Dogs

Riker and Jubilee are both anxious in new buildings. Riker is a nervous guy all around and Jubilee, well I’m fairly sure she is worried that every inside place is another vet’s office. Unfortunately she has had way too many vet visits and is very anxious about the handling that occurs there. For these two dogs, we practice stationing, a strongly reinforced (lots of cookies) and predictable behaviour, in many different situations.

A go-to behaviour with a high rate of reinforcement takes their minds off of the ‘what ifs’ and teaches them that these uncertain areas predict fun things happening.

With enough practice, they will hopefully learn to look forward to heading to unfamiliar places as, more often than not, fun things happen there.

Look for different surfaces and textures. Frankie is practicing on rounded metal pipes!

Why Station?

Build confidence in new or scary locations

Keep your dog out from underfoot

Distract your dog from things they may bark at

Build body awareness and confidence.

Give your dog structure so they can let go of being ‘On Guard’ when people or other dogs are nearby.

Gives your dog an easy ‘out’, an easy thing they can do rather than worry about things going on around them.

FREE Reactive Dog Course & Support Group

‘Choice’ Moments and ‘No Choice’ Moments

by Positive Dog | Jan 15, 2022 | Reactive, Aggressive, or Overexcited Dogs

‘Choice’ Moments and ‘No Choice’ Moments

Dogs do, or should, have ‘Choice’ moments and ‘No Choice’ moments. Both are important.

‘Choice’ moments are when we ask our dog to do something, and they can say ‘No’.

An example is when working with a reactive or overexcited dog. Assuming that at home or when there are no big distractions nearby, a dog can sit, then sitting near other dogs (if that is what they react to) is a ‘choice’ moment. If I ask a dog to sit with a scary or exciting dog nearby and they can’t, this is information. We may try an easier task like a cookie scatter, or we might move away and try with more distance.

I could coerce or force the sit & many people do! By using force or coercion, we ignore the animals emotional state. I often get calls about dogs who ‘seem fine, then explode’, this is often seen in the dogs who were trying to communicate that they can’t sit. As a side note, coercion doesn’t always mean force. Cookies can be used coercively too!

& ‘No Choice’ moments are when we need our dog to do something, and saying ‘No’ is not an option for them.

Ideally, we do this as little as possible, but life has no choice times for us all. Barking and lunging at people or dogs is one example of a ‘No Choice’ time. It’s NOT ok to bark and lunge at people or dogs while out on walks. If I am training a dog and they start to back and lunge or I can see they are about to, we are walking away. Period. No choice is available. If the dog is capable of responding to cues at that time, I’ll call away or even lure away with a cookie as it is less aversive and will entwine less ‘icky’ feelings into the scenario. However, if the dog isn’t likely to be able to respond, I won’t ask and we are still leaving. Standing there waving cookies in a dogs face while they terrorize people at the park isn’t an option that I am willing to entertain. I simply shorten up the leash, and off we go.. I’m going, and the pooch is attached to me via the leash, so they are coming too! I’m not angry or punitive, just simply and matter-of-factly leaving and taking the dog too.

Another, less obvious is getting into the car at the end of a hike. If a dog gets car sick or has an aversion to the car, they might avoid being caught or lured into the car at the end of the walk. If I know that this is the case, well ahead of arriving at the car, leash goes on and when we get to the car simply, & without drama, put the dog in the car – don’t ask them if they want to get into the car if there isn’t a choice. If we ask, then we say there’s no choice, we risk creating confusion and anxiety around our cues.

A Time for Choice

When a dog is anxious, holding a position is a ‘choice’ moment. If we have a dog settled in a down, and a scary dog comes by, if we try to force or coerce the down, we have effectlively takes away the dog’s flight option. Do you know what’s left? Fight. Instead, if our dog wants to get up, encourage that and teacht hem how to move away from stress rather than towards it.

Riker’s ‘Choice’ Moment

As you can see in the video, Riker communicated very clearly that he did NOT want to get out of his crate at the groomers. Typically he excitedly jumps out, pees on a shrub, then runs in to see his groomer bestie and any little dog friends who are already inside. This is a very sudden behaviour change for him. Riker is saying “No.” And I am listening.

But!!! I can hear people now. He needs to be groomed for his well-being. Yes he does, but we have options. I can groom him at home. If he was too anxious about grooming, a mobile groomer might work for him. If those weren’t options, I would talk to my vet about a sedative to suppress his anxiety long enough to have him shaved down, nails trimmed, etc. And then I’d make a training plan to help him accept grooming.

This is an area where the negative emotions associated with the ‘No Choice’ moments out weigh the need for him to see his groomer. Luckily, we have an awesome groomer and she 100% agrees and supports my decision.

What Are Your Dog’s L.E.G.S?

by Positive Dog | Jan 10, 2022 | General Training, Reactive, Aggressive, or Overexcited Dogs

What Are Your Dog’s L.E.G.S?

It’s actually not all about how you raise them. Dogs come with a set of built in characteristics based on their genetic history. Breed or type tendencies will of course vary from dog to dog, but due to the long history of breeding specifically for behaviour traits, there are behaviours that we are likely to see in each breed or type. No one is surprised to see a Golden Retriever who loves puddles and fetching tennis balls!

Check out Kim Brophey’s Book “Meet Your Dog”

Brophey’s L.E.G.S model explains that there are four components, or legs, to each dog, each just as important as the others.

‘L’earning – What is our dog’s learning history?

‘E’nvironment – What environment is our dog living in now?

‘G’enetics – What has our dog been bred to do? What feels intrinsically good to them?

‘S’elf – Who is this dog? What makes them unique?