Reactivity: Is it Fear? Frustration? Something Else?

Reactivity: Is it Fear? Frustration? Something Else?

Reactivity: Is it Fear? Frustration? Something Else?

Dogs are reactive for many reasons. We can’t truly get inside their heads, but by watching body language and getting to know the dog, we can take some good guesses.  By understanding WHY our dog is reacting, we can better choose a strategy to help them… and us.  Being a reactive dog is hard, and having a reactive dog is hard.

Common reasons for reactivity include but are not limited to:

  • anxiety or fear,
  • frustration,
  • territorial aggression or guarding,
  • over-excitability,
  • predatory aggression, and 
  • true dog aggression.

Dogs may have one or more of the reasons above for being reactive.  The hardest cases are when a dog has multiple motivations for reactivity, i.e a dog who is afraid of other dogs but really wants to meet them (perhaps inappropriately), so becomes frustrated when on leash.  

Below different training strategies for these common reasons for reactivity.  Each dog and each human are unique, and there is no recipe for reactivity that will work for every dog. This is why I struggle with offering an on-demand program.  No two dogs need the same plan. However, do check out my FREE Online Reactivity Course and Support Group. 

 

Anxiety

Anxious dogs might be this way due to trauma, genetics, lack of (or improper) socialization, or simply from being misunderstood. If we are able to set fair expectations for our fearful dogs, this is one of the easiest types of reactivity to address. Training, even with the help of medication, will not likely ever change an anxious dog into a confident socialite.   Set fair expectations for the dog, i.e. if they are afraid of strangers, don’t allow people to pet them. If they are afraid of dogs, don’t take them to busy off leash areas.   Maybe one day they will surprise us and be ready for these things, but maybe not.  Instead of trying to make them a more outgoing dog, teach them appropriate ways to communicate to you that they are afraid – and then when they communicate, step up and protect your dog from the scary things. This will build confidence!  

Anxious dogs often benefit from:

Frustration

Frustration is a very common reason for reactivity. Quite often, these dogs do great in dog parks or day cares, but lose their marbles when they see a dog when on leash.  Frustrated dogs sometimes play very inappropriately with other dogs, rushing in and smooshing them, not respecting the other dog’s communication.  This is another type of reactivity that we often successfully address.

Frustrated dogs often benefit from:

  • Relaxation Protocol (check out my version).
  • Focus and Obedience type games.
  • Practicing calm and polite greetings with people and dogs.
  • Supplementary exercises to meet the dog’s physical needs (tug, biking, wrestling, etc.)

Territorial Aggression & Guarding

This type of reactivity is often seen when a dog charges their fence, or worse, runs out of their yard and attacks or barks at a passerby, whether human or canine.  You might also see it if a dog has access to windows facing the street or trail where they can watch people passing. With dogs who are genetically predisposed to guard, we need to have fair expectations.  We cannot train a dog who was bred to guard for many many generations to become a friendly retriever who loves everyone.   

Territorial dogs often benefit from:

  • Relaxation Protocol (check out my version).
  • Recall training.
  • Communication from their people thanking them from guarding, then letting them know they are off duty.
  • Supplementary exercises to allow the dog to guard in an appropriate way while not scaring the neighbours. 

Over-Excitability

Think Pomeranian =)   Often these dogs bark a lot in their general life, and are super excited about everything. Then when they see a new potential BFF on the street, they just CANNOT contain themselves. 

Over-Excited dogs often benefit from:

Predatory Aggression

We see predatory aggression commonly towards cats, squirrels, rabbits, deer, etc.  Luckily we don’t see this directed at dogs or humans nearly as often as you might think.  Sometimes a frustrated dog is labeled as predatory, but it’s usually not the case. If your dog is truly predatory toward other dogs or humans, please don’t take advice from a blog or other online source – get help from a qualified professional certified by IAABC or a similar credentialling board. 

Predatory dogs often benefit from:

True Dog Aggression

Typical dogs who fight with other dogs will approach, stop and sniff with stiff body posture, then engage in a loud display where not much damage is done. Those are not the dogs I put in this category as they might just be frustrated or socially inappropriate.  The dogs in this category attack other dogs on sight, often silently, and they do damage.  Their intent isn’t to drive off the other dog, but to do harm. They are generally anti-social and often don’t have a history of having canine friends.  Don’t confuse this with two particular dogs who have been fighting off an on for some time and now will fight on sight – that is a different issue. 

Aggressive dogs often benefit from:

Congratulations if you made it this far! Don’t worry, the vast majority of reactive dogs fall into the first few categories. Reactivity is often very trainable!  Check out some of the links in the page, join the FREE Online Reactivity Course and Support Group, and try the exercises with your own dogs. 

Decompression Isn’t Just Sniffing

Decompression Isn’t Just Sniffing

Decompression Isn’t Just Sniffing

I hike my dogs so that they can go for an extended time using their bodies however feels good to them. They run and jump and crash through the bush, carry sticks, collect pine cones, walk beside me, chase each other, and swim in puddles.  It isn’t ‘off’ time – it’s ‘do what feels good’ time.

 

There is a lot of buzz around the idea of hiking for decompression and the idea that the dog should be trotting around sniffing and being chill.  That’s great, and some dogs love that. My dogs get a lot of decompression time in their day-to-day life, and I agree that it is important, but it’s not the only reason to hike.

Use That Body

Dogs, particularly active breeds, need physical activity and challenges. I can play fetch or tug, but those activities are too intense to play for extended periods. I’ll break my dogs if I play disc for two hours straight, but I have no qualms about hiking my dogs for 2 or 3 hours.  On a hike, the dog’s body and mind tells them what to do, when to stop, and when to lie down in a puddle.  I have one dog that I watch closely as he gets racy when he is tired – I watch for that and long line him. He’s a higher intensity dog and he sometimes runs harder when tired instead of slowing down.  This is when knowing your dog is important so that you can help them if they are making poor choices.

Balance

A lot of dogs have the need to challenge their bodies just as much as they need to eat, sleep, and drink water.  When we don’t meet this need, we can see a lot of other behaviour problems such as leash reactivity, bullying of other dogs, and destructive behaviour.

There aren’t any recipes or ‘one size fits all’ plans in dog training. Watch your dog, figure out who they are and what they need. Think about balance and be sure you are working both their brains and bodies and teaching them how to be patient and calm when needed.

    Relaxation Protocol

    Relaxation Protocol

    Relaxation Protocol

    Relaxation protocols will help your dog navigate many aspects of life, especially when what we want goes against their instincts.  These protocols will teach your dog to relax and in place when you move about the house, when a visitor arrives, and when you take your dog out in public.  Setting the stage right away for energy control is important. Teaching a dog to relax and be “off duty” is one of the kindest and most useful things we can do for our pets.  

    Settle

    A settle is like a down but with a hip flopped over and it has an implied duration and calmness.  You can shape, capturer, or lure this behaviour to start, depending on what works best for your dog’s personality and learning history.   

     

    Tip: Place the treats on the ground rather than feeding them to your dog’s mouth. This helps magnetize your dog to the ground rather than keeping their focus up to your hand or pocket.

     

    We will never ask for a settle and then ask for an explosive fast behaviour.  For example, we wouldn’t use settle while playing fetch because the expectation for the fun chase will change the energy state of the dog in a settle.   If you are playing with multiple dogs, you can use a settle to help one wait.  When it is that dog’s turn call them to you and ask for a sit or other behaviour before you begin fetch.

     

    Settle will be your dog’s job when you are vacuuming, when you stop to chat with a neighbour, when a friend pops by to drop off cake, etc. Pay your dog well for this game! Put a lot of value in teaching your dog to relax and you will have a lovely dog who you can take to a friend’s BBQ, to the hardware store, to the bank, or anywhere you like. 

    Treats

    You will use a lot of food to train your dog to relax.  You can use your dog’s meals to train or other healthy treats. Use treats that are medium or lower value to keep the energy level down.  If your dog isn’t keen on training for food, choose something exciting enough for them to want to play training games. Consider asking for help to train food motivation as this is a common issue that we help people work through.  Although we train many skills using toys, toys are not appropriate reinforcers for relaxing as it encourages excitement rather than relaxation.

     

    Examples:

    • Kibble if your dog eats kibble

    • Carrots, Peas, Sweet Potato, or other veggies

    • Beef or lamb lung

    Markers

    As you complete each step in the protocols calmly say “good” then reach into your treat pouch or pocket and deliver a treat by placing it onto the ground in front of them.   Some people choose not to say “good” and that is ok too, the best method depends on your dog’s training history. We advise you not to say “yes” or use a clicker however, as these markers are often paired with upbeat, fast, fun games and can affect the energy of the settle.

     Ideally, use a treat pouch or easy to access pocket rather than holding the treats in your hand. This little tip will help transition your dog to listening when you don’t have treats on you and it also helps keep excitable or food crazy dogs a little calmer.

      Talking To Your Dog

      Please talk to your dog as you work through the protocol if it feels natural to you. Chat with your dog as you might a young child, explaining what you are doing. It is amazing how much talking to them helps some dogs stay calm.     You can read more about talking to your dog here: “The Mr. Rogers Hack”

        Mat or No Mat?

        Some people will choose to use a mat or dog bed when training this protocol.  A mat is handy as you can take it with you when you train in new locations and the presence of the mat helps your dog clue into the game a little faster.  However, the end goal is typically that you don’t need the mat.  Without a mat, you will take more time to help your dog in new locations. If you use a mat you will need to fade the mat out of the training later but the best option varies dog to dog.  If you have a very anxious or excitable dog, of if your dog does not like to lie down on cold or hard surfaces, the mat is likely a good option.  Raised dog beds, bathmats, and towels make great relaxation mats.

          Error Handling

          What if your dog gets up during the protocol?  Mistakes happen, don’t sweat it.  Simply ask your dog to settle again, feed them, and move right back to it.   

          If your dog gets up once you have two options.

          1. Try the exact scenario again, in case it was just a simple mistake.
          2. Move back a step or two and start again where you know your dog can succeed.

          Dogs don’t need to make mistakes in order to learn. My preference for error handling is to move back enough steps that you know your dog can succeed, building up confidence and motivation.

           

          What if your dog gets up twice in a row? Now we really need to be proactive in building confidence and understanding. I suggest you go back to the very beginning of the Basic Protocol.  If your pup is still struggling, it is ok to go for a long sniffy walk for you both to decompress, then try again tomorrow.

           

            Credit: Dr Karen Overall

            Dr Overall created a Relaxation Protocol that was and is used by trainers all over the world. Along with her other work, it was a fantastic tool for many of us. We have written these updated protocols, based on Dr Overall’s work, to suit our current needs with our students as well as our own dogs. https://www.karenoverall.com/

              Basic Protocol

              Begin with this protocol and advance it as your dog’s level of understanding increases.  Keep the error handling protocol in mind and reinforce many easy reps to keep the momentum going and to build value in relaxing.

              Settle for 2 seconds

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle for 3 seconds

              Settle while you lift one foot off the ground

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you take one step

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you take one step and return

              Settle while you clap your hands lightly once

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle for 3 seconds

              Settle while you take 2 steps and return

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you take one step, count to 3, and return

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Keys to adding difficulty while building strong, confident behaviours

              • Always sandwich challenging reps with easy ones. I.e. If 20 seconds is new or challenging for your dog, practice a 3 second rep both before and after the 20 second rep.
              • If you add a distraction such as a friend sitting on a couch, start over from the beginning.

              Take It On The Road

              Practice the Basic Protocol at home, in the yard, on your walks, in the park, and anywhere you regularly take your dog.   When the distraction level increases by training in a new environment, be sure to start the protocol from the very beginning or as far back as needed for your dog to be very successful.   

              Teatime Protocol

              This protocol is written to help your dog relax in place while you make a cup of tea. This can be modified to include any routine task such as asking your dog to relax while you:

              • prepare their dinner,
              • give medication to another pet,
              • feed the cat, etc.

               

              Begin with the Basic Protocol. Once it is easy, split other daily tasks into small pieces.  Splitting big tasks into small achievable tasks is the key to building strong behaviours.

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle for 15 seconds

              Settle while you take one step and return

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you take two steps and return

              Settle for 7 seconds

              Settle while you take three steps and return

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you take three steps, touch the kettle for 1 second, and return to your dog

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you take three steps, pick up the kettle for 1 second, and return to your dog

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you take three steps, pick up the kettle, take 1 step towards the sink, and return to your dog

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you move to the kettle, pick it up, move to the sink, and fill the kettle, then return to your dog

              Practice over multiple sessions, only advancing as fast as your dog allows. All dogs learn at different rates, so be patient.  Move slow enough that the process has very few errors. This will build a strong, relaxed end behaviour.

              Visitors at the Door Protocols

              These protocols are written to help your dog relax in place while visitors arrive.  Begin with the Basic Protocol and the Teatime Protocol.  If the protocols as written are too challenging, break it down into smaller pieces with less duration or less intensity. The right protocol is the one that sets your dog up for success.

              Choose a location to settle your dog that is ideally within view of the door, but at least 10’ away. 

              Train this when you do not have actual visitors. Manage real visitors by putting your dog in a crate or bedroom when they arrive.  Once you have completed the protocols, have visitors enter and get comfortable seated, then bring your dog out on leash and practice the Basic Protocol, working up to practicing when visitors arrive.

              These protocols are not a behaviour modification program to address fearful or aggressive behaviour from your dog when people arrive. Instead, it is a foundation on top of which a behaviour modification program can be built. If your dog has aggressive or extremely fearful behaviour when people come to the door, please ask for help from a certified professional.

              Practice this protocol over multiple sessions, increasing either the length of time that the door is open, or how far you open the door. Do not increase two criteria in one repetition.   

              For safety, you may tether your dog so that they cannot run out the door. A baby gate between your dog and the door is another great option.

              Door Opening Protocol

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle for 15 seconds

              Settle while you take two steps towards the door and return

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you take three steps towards the door and return

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, touch the door for one second, and return to your dog

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, touch the doorknob for one second, and return to your dog

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, open the door 1” for 1 second, and return to your dog

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, open the door 1” for 5 seconds, and return to your dog

              Settle for 7 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, open the door 3” for 1 seconds, and return to your dog

              Settle for 5 seconds

               

              Practice this protocol over multiple sessions, increasing either the length of time that the door is open or the intensity of the knocking. Do not increase two criteria in one repetition.   

              For safety, you may tether your dog so that they cannot run out the door. A baby gate between your dog and the door is another great option.

              Knocking (Doorbell) Protocol

              Before attempting this protocol, complete the Door Opening Protocol and comfortably be able to ask your dog to settle while you fully open the door for 20 seconds. If the protocol as written is too challenging, break it down into smaller pieces with less duration or less intensity. The right protocol is the one that sets your dog up for success.

               

              This protocol is written for knocking at the door, but anytime we write ‘knock’ you can substitute ‘ring the doorbell’.  You will not use your actual doorbell to start. Instead, either use YouTube to find doorbell sounds, or record your own doorbell on your phone.  It is important at the beginning to control the volume of the doorbell, which you can do using your phone and YouTube or the recording.

               

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle for 20 seconds

              Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, touch the doorknob for one second, and return to your dog

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice, then pause for 1 second before returning to your dog.

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, open the door fully for 5 seconds, and return to your dog

              Settle for 20 seconds

              Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice, then pause for 2 seconds before returning to your dog.

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you knock a little harder on a wall or table twice, then pause for 2 seconds before returning to your dog.

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, open the door fully for 20 seconds, and return to your dog

              Settle for 7 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, knock lightly and return to your dog.  

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table, walk to the door, open the door for 2 seconds, and return to your dog.  

              Practice this protocol over multiple sessions, increasing either the length of time that the door is open or the intensity of the knocking. Do not increase two criteria in one repetition. 

              For safety, you may tether your dog so that they cannot run out the door. A baby gate between your dog and the door is another great option.

              Talking Protocol

              Before attempting this protocol, complete the Knocking (Doorbell) Protocol and comfortably be able to ask your dog to settle while you knock loudly, walk to the door, and fully open the door for 20 seconds.  If the protocol as written is too challenging, break it down into smaller pieces with less duration or less intensity. The right protocol is the one that sets your dog up for success.

              Think about the phrases you are likely to use when you have visitors. Use your natural language in the protocol rather than the generic ones we include.

               

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you say “Hi! Come on in!”

              Settle for 20 seconds

              Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, open the door for 5 seconds, and return to your dog

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice, say “Come on in!”, then pause for 1 second and return to your dog.

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you knock, say “Hi Joan!”, walk to the door, open the door fully for 15 seconds, and return to your dog

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice, say “Hi Bob!”, then pause for 2 seconds and return to your dog.

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you knock a little harder on a wall or table twice, say “Come on in!” then pause for 2 seconds before returning to your dog.

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, open the door fully for 20 seconds, say “Hi, thank you for the pizza!”, and return to your dog

              Settle for 7 seconds

              Settle while you knock, walk to the door, open the door fully for 20 seconds, say “Hi, thank you for the pizza!”, and return to your dog

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Surprise!

              Once you have completed the protocols, integrate the surprise factor. When your dog isn’t expecting training, knock or speak to an imaginary visitor, ask them to settle on their bed, and rehearse a few repetitions. Practice this no more than twice a day, and balance it with non-surprise sessions.

              Talk To Your Dog

              Talk To Your Dog

              Have you had a trainer tell you not to talk to your dog so much?  Or maybe you have seen a meme floating around recently telling people not to talk to their dogs?    Sometimes I agree.  If you are training focus or verbal cues, you likely don’t want to clutter things with unnecessary mumbo jumbo.   However, talking to your dog about what is going on in the world, the plan for the next little bit, etc. can be a great help for anxious or excitable dogs.  

              Plus, it’s kind of cool when our dog knows words. Many dogs know “walk” or “dinner” or “ball” because those words are said in association with the activity on a regular basis.  Check out this great PDF on “The Mr. Rogers Hack” i.e. talking to your dog similarly to how Mr. Rogers talked to young children. 

              Benefits Of Stationing

              Benefits Of Stationing

              Benefits Of Stationing

              Nervous dog? Excitable Dog? Reactive Dog?

              Stationing is when we ask our dog to get onto a thing and stay there for a period of time. Typically we ask for four paws up, but this can be done with two paws up, a down, a sit, or whatever is most useful for you and your dog.  We use this a lot for dogs who need help being calm, confident, or focused while out in the world or when a lot is going on around them.

              Teach it at home first. As your dog to climb onto as many surfaces as you can think of: a pillow, a couch cushion, a coffee table, an upside down pot, an upside down laundry basket, a planter.. you get the idea.  You can lure your dog with cookies or shape it if you prefer to train that way.  It is important that you don’t pull, push, or place your dog on the item though – the whole point of this game is for them to learn to climb on themselves. Pay them well! (Many Cookies)

               

               

              Environmentally Sensitive Dogs

              Riker and Jubilee are both anxious in new buildings. Riker is a nervous guy all around and Jubilee, well I’m fairly sure she is worried that every inside place is another vet’s office. Unfortunately she has had way too many vet visits and is very anxious about the handling that occurs there.  For these two dogs, we practice stationing, a strongly reinforced (lots of cookies) and predictable behaviour, in many different situations. 

              A go-to behaviour with a high rate of reinforcement takes their minds off of the ‘what ifs’ and teaches them that these uncertain areas predict fun things happening.

              With enough practice, they will hopefully learn to look forward to heading to unfamiliar places as, more often than not, fun things happen there.

              Look for different surfaces and textures. Frankie is practicing on rounded metal pipes!

              Why Station?

              Build confidence in new or scary locations

              Keep your dog out from underfoot

              Distract your dog from things they may bark at

              Build body awareness and confidence.

              Give your dog structure so they can let go of being ‘On Guard’ when people or other dogs are nearby.

              Gives your dog an easy ‘out’, an easy thing they can do rather than worry about things going on around them.

              ‘Choice’ Moments and ‘No Choice’ Moments

              ‘Choice’ Moments and ‘No Choice’ Moments

              ‘Choice’ Moments and ‘No Choice’ Moments

              Dogs do, or should, have ‘Choice’ moments and ‘No Choice’ moments. Both are important.

               

              ‘Choice’ moments are when we ask our dog to do something, and they can say ‘No’. 

              An example is when working with a reactive or overexcited dog.  Assuming that at home or when there are no big distractions nearby, a dog can sit, then sitting near other dogs (if that is what they react to) is a ‘choice’ moment.  If I ask a dog to sit with a scary or exciting dog nearby and they can’t, this is information. We may try an easier task like a cookie scatter, or we might move away and try with more distance.

              I could coerce or force the sit & many people do!  By using force or coercion, we ignore the animals emotional state.  I often get calls about dogs who ‘seem fine, then explode’, this is often seen in the dogs who were trying to communicate that they can’t sit.   As a side note, coercion doesn’t always mean force. Cookies can be used coercively too!

               

               

              & ‘No Choice’ moments are when we need our dog to do something, and saying ‘No’ is not an option for them. 

              Ideally, we do this as little as possible, but life has no choice times for us all.  Barking and lunging at people or dogs is one example of a ‘No Choice’ time. It’s NOT ok to bark and lunge at people or dogs while out on walks. If I am training a dog and they start to back and lunge or I can see they are about to, we are walking away. Period. No choice is available.   If the dog is capable of responding to cues at that time, I’ll call away or even lure away with a cookie as it is less aversive and will entwine less ‘icky’ feelings into the scenario.  However, if the dog isn’t likely to be able to respond, I won’t ask and we are still leaving. Standing there waving cookies in a dogs face while they terrorize people at the park isn’t an option that I am willing to entertain. I simply shorten up the leash, and off we go.. I’m going, and the pooch is attached to me via the leash, so they are coming too!   I’m not angry or punitive, just simply and matter-of-factly leaving and taking the dog too.

               

              Another, less obvious is getting into the car at the end of a hike. If a dog gets car sick or has an aversion to the car, they might avoid being caught or lured into the car at the end of the walk.  If I know that this is the case, well ahead of arriving at the car, leash goes on and when we get to the car simply, & without drama, put the dog in the car – don’t ask them if they want to get into the car if there isn’t a choice.   If we ask, then we say there’s no choice, we risk creating confusion and anxiety around our cues.

              A Time for Choice

              When a dog is anxious, holding a position is a ‘choice’ moment.  If we have a dog settled in a down, and a scary dog comes by, if we try to force or coerce the down, we have effectlively takes away the dog’s flight option. Do you know what’s left? Fight. Instead, if our dog wants to get up, encourage that and teacht hem how to move away from stress rather than towards it.

              Riker’s ‘Choice’ Moment

              As you can see in the video, Riker communicated very clearly that he did NOT want to get out of his crate at the groomers.  Typically he excitedly jumps out, pees on a shrub, then runs in to see his groomer bestie and any little dog friends who are already inside.  This is a very sudden behaviour change for him.  Riker is saying “No.” And I am listening.  

              But!!! I can hear people now. He needs to be groomed for his well-being. Yes he does, but we have options. I can groom him at home. If he was too anxious about grooming, a mobile groomer might work for him.  If those weren’t options, I would talk to my vet about a sedative to suppress his anxiety long enough to have him shaved down, nails trimmed, etc.  And then I’d make a training plan to help him accept grooming.  

               

              This is an area where the negative emotions associated with the ‘No Choice’ moments out weigh the need for him to see his groomer.   Luckily, we have an awesome groomer and she 100% agrees and supports my decision.