by Positive Dog | Oct 2, 2018 | General Training
We all know dogs need walks and exercise. Certain breeds need more than others, younger dogs need more than seniors, and we need to be careful about how we exercise puppies.
Fetch – the Good, the Bad, and the Way I Play
Many dogs love a good game of fetch. I love playing disc and ball with my own dogs, and I play a little bit with them most days.
The Good
Fetch can be a great way to burn off a little steam before a leash walk or before company arrives. If you dont feel like going for a walk, fetch is something you can do from a chair with your coffee in hand. They even make chuckit devices that allow you to throw 3 times farther than you can normally throw, still from that chair, coffee in hand.
The Bad
Over-Excitement
Fetch can ramp up some dogs to an unhealthy level. For overexcited dogs, it can keep them in that unhealthy mind set for a long period of time. Instead of taking the edge off, or tiring the dog, fetch can create a wired, pushy, crazy eyed dog who can’t settle or relax. Particularly for reactive dogs or ones that have trouble settling in the first place, fetch can be a poor choice for exercise.
Injuries
Played too long, or with dogs too young or too old, or for ones with body structure that’s less than ideal, fetch can cause serious injuries.
Growth plates in your dogs joints do not finish developing until your puppy is 14months old. Until that age, you should be very careful not to overdo any exercise, particularly fetch and jumping games, or your pup can have joint damage that you might not notice for a few years.
Certain breeds are prone to cruciate ligament tears. Particularly for those breeds and for dogs that leap up for the ball, then land on their hind end, fetch should be limited.
The Way I Play Fetch
Always play on safe surfaces. Never play where you dog has to run down a set of stairs or over slippery surface. Choose your area wisely.
Safe Placement
Your dog’s job is to catch. Your job is to place the toy so that your dog can catch and land in a safe manner.
For dogs that leap, be careful on how you throw. Throw low and short distances at first. As you and your dog get better at playing safely, add in a few farther throws. If your dog seems to be wildly throwing himself at the toy, go back to shorter throws. If you have terrible aim, go out with the toy without your dog and practice. He can’t catch safely if you can’t throw accurately!
Impulse Control
Fetch doesnt have to be a mindless game. Minimally, your dog should offer to sit to earn the ball or disc toss. Ideally, you can ask for any known trick from your dog, in fact, a sequence of tricks, to earn that toss.
If you can do 10 strides of heel work, followed by a shake a paw, a rollover, and a sit stay, that dog has earned the toss!
This changes fetch from a mindless game of wild ball chasing to a thoughtful game of obedience and trick practice that uses the ball or disc as a reward.
Go have fun with your dog! 🙂
by Positive Dog | Sep 18, 2018 | General Training
Separation Anxiety is a tough problem and many people and dogs face it every day. Some dogs shiver and quake at the sight of their person getting ready for work. Some dogs will bloody themselves and do thousands of dollars of damage in a short time if left alone.
On the moderate side of separation anxiety, some dogs simply gather their person’s things together in a pile when they leave.
Dogs with mild separation anxiety simply wont eat or play until their person returns.
Sudden onset? See your vet!
If your dog suddenly has separation anxiety, please see your vet. Many health issues from vision loss to dementia can cause behaviour changes. Rule those out first.
Have a friendly neighbour?
While you are working on making your dog more confident, manage the problem. Find a friend or neighbour who might dog sit or stay at your house while you go out. Many seniors are dog lovers who don’t want to commit to a dog long term or financially, but maybe you have one in your neighborhood who would like to care for your dog when you go out.
What can you do to help your dog?
- Identify any activities that alert your dog that you are leaving. Dogs are masters of anticipation. Just like they let you know if dinner is 5 minutes late, they know which shoes and jackets you wear when you are leaving them, the keys you pick up, the way you do your hair. Make a list of the things you do and desensitize your dog to them. For instance, put on your work shoes, give your dog a cookie, adn sit down and have a cup of tea. Take off your work shoes.
- Don’t make coming and going a big deal. It is ok to say “Be right back” when you leave, but don’t make a huge deal. Similarly, when you come home. calmly greet your dog, or even wait 2 minutes or until he is calm, provided his anxiety is moderate. If he is super excited, instead of matching his energy, pretend you are confused about why he is so excited. Calmly greet him and ask him to go lie on his bed while you make tea or start dinner.
- Practicing coming and going a lot. For short durations. An hour is forever to your dog. If you always leave for a long time, your dog will continue to worry. Practice leaving for 10 seconds. 30 seconds. 2 seconds. Just open the door, then go back to reading your book.
- Give your dog a ‘Quiet Space’ and practice calming exercises there. For many dogs, having the run of the house makes their anxiety worse. They can pace back and forth between rooms, looking out of windows, re-checking to see if you are in the bathroom. Sometimes free access also means hazards like couch eating and wall chewing are likely. Give your dog a small, safe space to be in. Work with them to make it a positive place where they practice being calm.
- Ditch the dish and use food puzzles, snuffle mats, and food toys instead. Instead of feeding from a bowl, use the food toys etc in the ‘Quiet Space’. This will give your dog something to do and build a habit of calmly chilling out in that space. As your dog progresses with eating in the Quiet Space, feed him and leave for a few minutes, or go take a shower to get him used to the idea of staying there alone.
- White Noise Not just when you leave, but all day, leave a talk show radio or TV on. Sometimes the noise of people talking will be enough to make your dog feel like they aren’t alone. At first, don’t just turn it on when you leave as this can become a predictor of you leaving and cause more stress.
- Camera Spy Cams are fairly cheap now. There are many options available. A camera at home will allow you to use your phone to check in on your dog anytime you feel like it, which can help with your anxiety, if not your dogs!
- Find your dog a buddy. I’m not typically one to suggest getting a pet for reasons other than you really want another pet, but a new dog or cat might help! Be careful that you choose a very stable companion as adding in a second anxious pet might not have great results!
- Talk to your vet about medication to help
- Read the book “Don’t Leave me” by Nicole Wilde and this blog post by Your Dog Advisor
If you need help, please ask. I’m happy to help in person or via Hangouts/Skype meetings. I have worked my own dogs through separation anxiety, as well as many clients.
by Positive Dog | Sep 1, 2018 | General Training
Regularly, and again in the last few weeks, social media has been swamped with posts about why you should not allow your dog to meet other dogs while on leash. They usually show a powerful info-graphic and use compelling language.
I’m here to say that if you like letting your dog greet other dogs on-leash, you are not a bad person or a bad dog owner!
There are exceptions, but in general, the average friendly dog can learn to be safe and polite when greeting other dogs on leash.
Dogs with Social Issues
If you have a dog with reactivity or anxiety issues or one that has been in dog fights on-leash, this post is not meant for you. If you have that dog and want him to learn to greet other dogs on leash, please consult with a certified positive reinforcement trainer.
Safety
In the real world, sometimes dogs are not under control and will run up to you and your dog. I don’t want my dog to be scared by a dog approaching. I want my dog to think this is normal and to calmly say hi or look to me for guidance. Dogs who are never allowed to greet on-leash may not have good social skills to deal with these situations.
If you and your dog enjoy meeting other people and dogs on your walks, here is how to do it safely and politely!
Polite greetings
If we are going to allow our dogs to greet each other on leash, we must teach our dogs to be polite when approaching other dogs and to disengage when we ask them to.
Step one is impulse control. Just because you see a dog, it doesn’t mean you get to sniff them. 90% of the time, don’t allow your dog to visit that other dog. Instead, use positive reinforcement (cookies, pats, and praise) to teach your dog to sit calmly while other dogs walk past.
Once you have a calm and attentive dog who can sit while other dogs pass, continue to the next step.
3 second rule
Imagine two people meeting and shaking hands. How long does a handshake last? 2-3 seconds is polite. We teach our dog the same rule. Say hello politely, then disengage after 2-3 seconds.
Choose a calm well behaved looking dog whose owner is looking at you in a friendly way. ALWAYS ask if it ok if the dogs meet. Not all dogs want to be visited.
Assuming the other owner says yes, give your dog verbal permission to “Go Say Hi” and wave them forward. In your head count 1-one-thousand, 2-one-thousand, 3-one-thousand. Call your dog back to you for a cookie and praise. You may need to use a little gentle leash pressure at first. If your dog can sit calmly again, you can give permission for him to “Go Say Hi” again. If you see any signs of stress from either dog, you should call your dog away sooner and not re-engage. You can, and should, practice this with dogs and people your dog already knows.
Here is a great page to review stress signals
What if, when you give permission to “Go Say Hi”, your dog charges in rudely? This can scare the other dog or owner, and it simply isn’t polite. For these dogs, first work some obedience near the other dogs. Is your dog relaxed enough to give you eye contact, practice sits and downs, shake a paw, or perform any other tricks he knows? If not, work on that first. If your dog still greets rudely, find a certified positive reinforcement trainer in your area to help you. I help a lot of clients teach their dogs to be polite greeters!
It is ok to be social
In general, humans are social creatures. In general, dogs are social creatures. As long as everyone is polite and happy about the situation, it is absolutely ok to socialize with other people and dogs if you and your dog enjoy doing so.
Note: Professional Dog Competitors
Professional dog trainers and active competitors live in a world where, in theory, all dogs are under control, people give each other space, and dogs are given plenty of other stimulation, exercise, and social opportunities. These dogs do not need to meet on leash, and it can be dangerous to allow amped up, high drive dogs to meet face to face in their training/competing environments. In general, please do not allow your dog to approach a dog at an agility, conformation, or flyball competition unless you know the other owner and dog well.
by Positive Dog | Aug 14, 2018 | General Training
Do you ever take your dog on a walk or to the park and find that he seems to have suddenly gone deaf? Not only is he ignoring you, but he has forgotten that you exist? ‘
Is he lunging and barking at other dogs/people/skateboards/bunnies, desperately ether wanting to play with them or eat them?
Your ungrateful best friend won’t even eat the carefully-prepared and locally-made dehydrated treats you brought?
Sound Familiar?
If this sounds like your problem, I have bad news and good news for you. Bad news is that yelling or pulling on the lead is useless. Good news is that I know what your dog is experiencing and how to change his behaviour to something a little less likely to cause arm and shoulder strain.
Too Hot to Handle or Not Hot Enough?
When your dog acts like this, he is either not motivated or is too distracted by the environment to think or even hear you. In dog training terms, we call this over-aroused.
There’s this neat graph called the Arousal Bell Curve. You can Google it if you’d like more info on it.
Basically, there’s a level of arousal where your dog can listen and perform the tasks he knows. If he is too low or too high, his performance suffers. Our goal is to manage our environment and our rewards to keep our dog in the productive part of the graph.
Good dog training happens when your dog is neither under- or over- aroused.
If your dog is over-aroused, you are likely just doing a whole lot of management instead of actual training. Management skills are important for when you get into unexpected situations, but that isn’t how you fix the problem.
Distance Yourselves
Distance is the first answer. Increase the distance between your dog and whatever it is that he finds exciting or scary. From here on, we will call that thing the ‘trigger’.
“But distance doesn’t work/I can’t take him that far away from …”
If you can’t move farther from the trigger, ask yourself how you can make it easier for your dog so he can be successful? Maybe a visual barrier such as some trees or a parked car will help? A different location? Start learning the skills on a different trigger?
If your dog reacts to other dogs for instance, but you find that no distance is far enough to keep him from being over-aroused, start with dogs on the TV, or maybe bunnies or birds are a good substitute to begin your training.
Give Him a Reason to Care
Step one to fixing a motivation problem is to use high value treats. Unless you have an exceptionally food motivated dog, don’t try training with boring old Milk Bones or kibble. Few dogs will refuse some cut up steak, cubes of cheese, or dehydrated liver! The best treat is one your dog hasn’t had in a while – mix it up and keep your dog guessing as to what he is working for.
Getting Things For Free
Many dogs are not motivated to train because they get everything they want for free. There’s that big bowl of kibble on the floor, or maybe a free bowl of yummy food twice a day. Couches and comfy beds are at their disposal, doors open when they ask, etc. They pretty much have the keys to the car, no curfew, and access to a credit card.
If your dog has a motivation problem and higher value treats don’t seem to work, put them on a work to eat program. Some trainers call it ‘Ditch the Dish’ or ‘Nothing in Life is Free’. I personally think that love and affection should be free, but those hard to motivate dogs should learn to say ‘please’ to have doors opened and should earn all of their meals either on training walks or by doing simple obedience or tricks for you.
How Much Should You Ask For?
If you have addressed the arousal and motivation pieces, but find your dog still has selective hearing, maybe you are simply asking for more than your dog can give you. If you want your dog to sit or to look at you but he can’t, consider what criteria he can meet such as just standing still or not vocalizing.
Think about it, if your dog didn’t pull or vocalize when he saw his trigger, would you have read this far into my post? These simple things are great first criteria. Rewarding your dog for being successful at these will help bring your dog’s energy down and he will start to offer to look at you or perhaps even offer to sit. For more information on this, read my posts on Offered Attention and the Look-At-That game.
Remember, training should be fun for both you and your dog. If either of you are feeling frustrated, it’s time to change something!
by Positive Dog | Dec 20, 2017 | General Training
Do you have a distracted dog? It takes some time and patience, but it’s not so hard to train them to want to pay attention.
People often tell me that when there are distractions, their dog doesn’t pay attention to them, won’t come when called, won’t sit when told to, etc. One of the main games I play with my dogs, and with dogs I am training, is to teach THEM to offer attention. I don’t want to nag or beg the dog to pay attention to me, I want the dog to be the one checking in.
This is a basic foundation skill, not one you just play at the dog park.
To start teaching this skill, have some cookies or a toy on you, but do not engage your dog. When he looks at you, say ‘yes’ or click if using a clicker, and reward your dog with a cookie or a game of tug. If your dog is glued to you because you are super awesome and he knows you have cookies and his fave toy, toss a cookie away and tell your pooch to go get it. After he eats it, he will likely come looking for you again. As soon as he looks at you, say ‘yes’ or click and reward. Repeat. It’s that simple.
TIPS:
- If your dog is easily distracted and just learning this game, hold the leash in the middle, not at the end. Your dog can EARN the length of the leash by being attentive.
- Your dog will learn faster if you have A+ rewards like chicken meat, little bits of steak, etc.
- If your dog simply stares at you waiting for the cookies, be sure you are not standing there with your hand in your pocket or cookies in your hand. This is called ‘luring’ or bribing your dog – and it doesn’t work! The cookies or toy should be in a pocket or bait pouch and your hand should not reach for the reward until AFTER you say ‘yes’ or click to mark him looking at you.
Take the game outside.
Put your dog on leash. Hopefully he is well mannered and sits politely for you to open the front door, if not, work on that! =) When you give him permission to exit the house, take a step outside yourself and wait. How long will it take for him to stop pulling on the leash, scanning the environment, and look at you? Just wait!
Resist the urge to call his name, make little chirping noises, or jiggle the leash. Put the ball in his court. Nothing fun will happen until he looks at you. When he does, say ‘yes’ or click and reward with a super awesome reward. You might not want to start walking yet. Repeat this game, waiting until your dog stays focused on you, then start walking. If he immediately races to the end of the leash distracted by the world, simply stop and wait.
We go for walks together, mentally in sync.
Make this game a way of life.
This is one of my foundation games for any new puppy or dog. Everywhere we go, everything we do – we play this game. Gradually play this game in more and more distracting environments. Play this game before you let your dog off leash to run in a field, visit doggy friends, etc. Make offered attention how your dog EARNS the things he would like in life.
Once your dog is a pro, you can ask for more – attention AND a nice sit by your side… but don’t ask for calculus before you have taught Kindergarten!
Check out some of our other foundation skills:
by Positive Dog | Dec 18, 2017 | General Training, Reactive, Aggressive, or Overexcited Dogs
The key is keeping your dog under threshold while you work.
Imagine a scale from 0 to 10 where 0 means your dog is calm, cool, and collected, and 10 means your dog is lunging and crazy to go eat/sniff/play with/kill the thing that has him all wound up. Ideally, we train when your dog is at level 2 or 3. At this point, your dog sees the trigger and is interested, but not yet moving towards it or vocalizing. If your dog is moving towards the trigger or vocalizing, he is too high on the scale and you should use some of your management games (Back-Away Game, Focus Game, Tricks) to get some distance between you and the trigger.
When your dog acknowledges the trigger
hen your dog alerts to the trigger, listens for, looks for (maybe the dog or person or squirrel was there, but left), feed your dog. YOUR DOG DOES NOT HAVE TO LOOK AT YOU! This is the biggest mistake people make. This game is all about your dog and the trigger, not about us. If you reward your dog looking at you, you are actually teaching your dog to just ignore the trigger, which is a handy management tool, but it does not fix the root problem.
That’s it in a nutshell. When your dog alerts to the trigger, feed your dog. Repeat. If your dog is not taking the cookies, and you are sure you are using something of high value, it means your dog is over threshold and is too high on that scale. Use your management games to move him away from the trigger.
After a few reps
Once you’ve delivered up to 10 treats, or fewer if your dog starts to go over threshold, use your management games to get your dog away from the trigger. Then trot him out a bit, ask him to go sniff the grass or pee on a tree, or play tug if he will play. Do something to get your dog moving and relaxed. Many dogs will shake off the stress or pee on a tree at this time to diffuse the tension. Now you can go back towards the trigger and repeat!
So how does this actually work??? Why don’t we just punish the dog for bad behaviour?
By giving your dog an awesome treat in the presence of a trigger, but when your dog is under threshold, you are creating a ‘conditioned emotional response’, or as us behaviour geeks say, ‘CEU’.
Imagine you are afraid of spiders. If I left you in the kitchen, filled with 20 tarantulas, and tried to teach you how to cook quiche, we probably would not be very successful. You would not be in a good mind set to learn or think about anything really. Imagine I yelled at you, or yanked on your neck, or gave you an electric shock. Now do you feel like cooking quiche? This is why shock collars and corrections of any kind do not work for reactive dogs.
Instead, imagine I take you to a huge field. Waaaay off in the distance, you notice what you think is a spider. I give you some cheesecake. You eat the cheesecake, then look for the spider. You get more cheesecake. You are happy to eat the cheesecake because you know the spider is way too far away to be of any danger. Eventually, as we play this game more and more, you will start looking for spiders in anticipation of cheesecake, instead of in panic. The more we play, the closer you will be able to be to that spider. This is counter-conditioning the dog’s current emotional response to a trigger.
For those of you with the happy go lucky dog or the dog with a high prey drive, this game teaches your dog to be calm and relaxed in the presence of the other dogs or squirrels etc.
You can learn a lot more about this technique by reading “Control Unleashed”.
The look-at-that game is classical conditioning rather than operant conditioning. If you like reading and feel geeky, read up on Skinner vs Pavlov and you’ll get an in depth explanation of how it all works. Whenever we are trying to change an emotional response to a stimuli – fear or over-excitement/arousal, classical conditioning beats operant conditioning.
