Want your dog to become their very best self? Be the first to hear about Dream Dog!
Bus Stop Manners

Bus Stop Manners

by | Jan 4, 2023 | General Training, Reactive, Aggressive, or Overexcited Dogs

What are ‘Bus Stop Manners’?

Dogs are not people, and people are not dogs, but sometimes it is handy to use analogies to help understand behaviour. This is where ‘Bus Stop Manners’ comes in.

Imagine you are sitting at a bus stop, or at a park bench or sitting at the food court in a mall… you get my drift. A person sits down beside you, staring intently at you, not breaking their gaze, not blinking, just staring.

You likely will feel uncomfortable. Maybe you’ll crack a joke (Fool Around Response), maybe you’ll move and sit somewhere else (Flight Response), maybe you’ll start a fight (Fight Response), or maybe you’ll pull out your phone and pretend to be busy (Fidget Response).  

In another scenario, a person runs up to you at the bus stop, jumps in your lap, wraps their arms around you, and declares you to be their new BFF! You start hearing about all of the intimate details of their life. Likely you feel uncomfortable and might have some of the same responses as to the person the first scenario. 

 

In yet another scenario, a person sits down next to you, glances your way and then goes about their business, or perhaps they start a polite conversation “Nice weather today” or “Do you have the time?”  They look at you with a soft look to their gaze, being careful not to intrude upon your personal space, and reading your cues about whether you’d like to engage in small talk or be left alone.  Finally you’ve met a polite person who understands approproaite social interactions when meeting strangers. 

Dogs have similar rules when it comes interacting with strange dogs too, but due to learning history or genetics some dogs end up being the creepy weirdos at the bus stop. This is why it is important to ensure our dogs have good ‘Bus Stop Manners’.  Help your dog have good manners – don’t let them be the weirdo at the bus stop. 

Training available in-person and virtually.

More info: www.positive.dog and https://positive.dog/virtual-training 

Testimonials

Your patience and kindness really shine through your training approach. We all had a great time and I am so pleased with how Lili is doing. We were out doing ‘house calls’ this afternoon and Lili did the best ever with her latest new dog-loving senior friend with very little barking, and few worries about the environment, other people, and noises …. I am so appreciative of the strong foundation she received in our virtual lessons with you. 

We are so happy with Buddy’s progress!  He was amazing today when our friends came over.  Thank you for helping us. We are so glad that we signed up for online lessons. 

I can’t believe how well we are doing! Rosie seems very happy lately. It’s really, really great!! Thank you for the help!

What People Don’t Know

What People Don’t Know

by | Oct 30, 2022 | General Training, Reactive, Aggressive, or Overexcited Dogs

What People Don’t Know…

Socializing a dog is an act of love by a person who wants their dog to be comfortable and confident around people, other animals, and in daily life.  Sometimes, these well-intentioned attempts backfire and do more harm than good. What people don’t know can hurt their dog, and other dogs. 

Today I was training with a client on the outside of a dog park.  This is a common place for me to train as it allows us to practice either ignoring other dogs or polite greetings through the fence.  I’m going to tell a story of what we saw there today. 

An hour at the dog park

The park is divided into two spaces, one for small dogs and the other for big dogs. The small dog side was very busy with a dozen or so dogs milling about, playing chase, and overall being appropriate and having a good time.  On the big dog side, it was fairly quiet with two lovely beagles and a young golden retriever were playing nicely.   My client pooch did great, greeting a few of the littles and the beagles and retriever very appropriately. I’m so proud of how far he has come! 

A few more dogs arrived on the big dog side and I noticed a young giant breed dog enter. His behaviour was markedly different from his fellows. He was clearly uncomfortable with frantic appeasing body language and piloerection (hackles) visible from the top of his neck to the base of his tail.  I pointed him out to my client and explained why the dog park was not an appropriate place for him. He was overwhelmed and not coping in a healthy way. 

 

Just then, from up the hill, we see another young giant-breed dog approaching. He was an intact male mastiff and his people were trying hard to do the right thing: stopping every step, asking him to sit before taking another step towards the park, trying to teach him self-control. When he reached the park, very excited, he and the other large breed pup have a good go at it through the fence. The owners pulled them apart and tried to introduce them a few more times, but the fighting through the fence just got louder each time.  Eventually, the owners of the new dog gave up and walked away, complaining about the aggressive dog inside. 

After a bit, the dog inside the park leaves and the young mastiff goes inside. The barking inside the park increased significantly. The young 100+lb dog jumped on the other dogs, harassed them, and generally ignored any and all social cues asking for space.  Bluntly, he was being a bully – a real jackass. 

 

Sadly his owner doesn’t see it that way. The other owners are left to pull him off of their dogs, step between him and their dogs, and try to navigate the situation.   The mastiff owners looked on, apparently confident that their dog was behaving appropriately or that the other dogs were capable of changing his behaviour. 

I saw a number of frustrated owners trying to figure out what to do, or even if they should intervene. One very obese retriever is being harassed by the mastiff.  He ignored her snapping and snarling, giving her no space or respite. Unfortunately, the people around her also ignored her pleas for help as she would try to move behind people to escape him. 

Now, if you asked all of these dog owners whether they were doing their best to raise their dogs to be well-socialized and give them the best quality of life, they would probably all say “Yes!”.  If you asked them if the dog park was a great way to socialize their dogs, they would all say “Absolutely!”  If you asked them if their dog enjoyed the dog park, they would say “Definitely!” 

Are they right though?  

Yes. No. 

That’s the problem. The dog park can be a great place. People who go there are probably great people. Dogs can have a great time. 

But.

Only if the people understand dog behaviour, only if they respond to it, only if they respect it, and only if they recognize their role in shaping it. 

The dogs who were being bullied needed an advocate.  The young overwhelmed pup needed to be taken out to observe and meet dogs from out side of the fence.  The bullying mastiff needed someone to step in to teach him how to greet politely and to interrupt him when he ignores signals from other dogs. 

 

This is not a post telling you not to visit the dog park. My heart breaks for the dogs who were unwittingly put into this position, for the dogs who are put into this position every day.  I feel for that overwhelmed giant-breed pup, that marauding unguided mastiff, the frustrated and scared targets of his bullying. 

I would bet that none of the owners saw what I did. Instead of the potential harm and future problems, they likely thought their dogs could figure things out on their own.   They thought they were setting their dogs up for success. 

Don’t forget to join the FREE Online Reactivity Course and Support Group to learn fun games to play outside of the dog park. 

Reactivity: Is it Fear? Frustration? Something Else?

Reactivity: Is it Fear? Frustration? Something Else?

by | Oct 29, 2022 | Reactive, Aggressive, or Overexcited Dogs

Reactivity: Is it Fear? Frustration? Something Else?

Dogs are reactive for many reasons. We can’t truly get inside their heads, but by watching body language and getting to know the dog, we can take some good guesses.  By understanding WHY our dog is reacting, we can better choose a strategy to help them… and us.  Being a reactive dog is hard, and having a reactive dog is hard.

Common reasons for reactivity include but are not limited to:

  • anxiety or fear,
  • frustration,
  • territorial aggression or guarding,
  • over-excitability,
  • predatory aggression, and 
  • true dog aggression.

Dogs may have one or more of the reasons above for being reactive.  The hardest cases are when a dog has multiple motivations for reactivity, i.e a dog who is afraid of other dogs but really wants to meet them (perhaps inappropriately), so becomes frustrated when on leash.  

Below different training strategies for these common reasons for reactivity.  Each dog and each human are unique, and there is no recipe for reactivity that will work for every dog. This is why I struggle with offering an on-demand program.  No two dogs need the same plan. However, do check out my FREE Online Reactivity Course and Support Group. 

 

Anxiety

Anxious dogs might be this way due to trauma, genetics, lack of (or improper) socialization, or simply from being misunderstood. If we are able to set fair expectations for our fearful dogs, this is one of the easiest types of reactivity to address. Training, even with the help of medication, will not likely ever change an anxious dog into a confident socialite.   Set fair expectations for the dog, i.e. if they are afraid of strangers, don’t allow people to pet them. If they are afraid of dogs, don’t take them to busy off leash areas.   Maybe one day they will surprise us and be ready for these things, but maybe not.  Instead of trying to make them a more outgoing dog, teach them appropriate ways to communicate to you that they are afraid – and then when they communicate, step up and protect your dog from the scary things. This will build confidence!  

Anxious dogs often benefit from:

Frustration

Frustration is a very common reason for reactivity. Quite often, these dogs do great in dog parks or day cares, but lose their marbles when they see a dog when on leash.  Frustrated dogs sometimes play very inappropriately with other dogs, rushing in and smooshing them, not respecting the other dog’s communication.  This is another type of reactivity that we often successfully address.

Frustrated dogs often benefit from:

  • Relaxation Protocol (check out my version).
  • Focus and Obedience type games.
  • Practicing calm and polite greetings with people and dogs.
  • Supplementary exercises to meet the dog’s physical needs (tug, biking, wrestling, etc.)

Territorial Aggression & Guarding

This type of reactivity is often seen when a dog charges their fence, or worse, runs out of their yard and attacks or barks at a passerby, whether human or canine.  You might also see it if a dog has access to windows facing the street or trail where they can watch people passing. With dogs who are genetically predisposed to guard, we need to have fair expectations.  We cannot train a dog who was bred to guard for many many generations to become a friendly retriever who loves everyone.   

Territorial dogs often benefit from:

  • Relaxation Protocol (check out my version).
  • Recall training.
  • Communication from their people thanking them from guarding, then letting them know they are off duty.
  • Supplementary exercises to allow the dog to guard in an appropriate way while not scaring the neighbours. 

Over-Excitability

Think Pomeranian =)   Often these dogs bark a lot in their general life, and are super excited about everything. Then when they see a new potential BFF on the street, they just CANNOT contain themselves. 

Over-Excited dogs often benefit from:

Predatory Aggression

We see predatory aggression commonly towards cats, squirrels, rabbits, deer, etc.  Luckily we don’t see this directed at dogs or humans nearly as often as you might think.  Sometimes a frustrated dog is labeled as predatory, but it’s usually not the case. If your dog is truly predatory toward other dogs or humans, please don’t take advice from a blog or other online source – get help from a qualified professional certified by IAABC or a similar credentialling board. 

Predatory dogs often benefit from:

True Dog Aggression

Typical dogs who fight with other dogs will approach, stop and sniff with stiff body posture, then engage in a loud display where not much damage is done. Those are not the dogs I put in this category as they might just be frustrated or socially inappropriate.  The dogs in this category attack other dogs on sight, often silently, and they do damage.  Their intent isn’t to drive off the other dog, but to do harm. They are generally anti-social and often don’t have a history of having canine friends.  Don’t confuse this with two particular dogs who have been fighting off an on for some time and now will fight on sight – that is a different issue. 

Aggressive dogs often benefit from:

Congratulations if you made it this far! Don’t worry, the vast majority of reactive dogs fall into the first few categories. Reactivity is often very trainable!  Check out some of the links in the page, join the FREE Online Reactivity Course and Support Group, and try the exercises with your own dogs. 

Decompression Isn’t Just Sniffing

Decompression Isn’t Just Sniffing

by | Aug 10, 2022 | General Training, Reactive, Aggressive, or Overexcited Dogs

Decompression Isn’t Just Sniffing

I hike my dogs so that they can go for an extended time using their bodies however feels good to them. They run and jump and crash through the bush, carry sticks, collect pine cones, walk beside me, chase each other, and swim in puddles.  It isn’t ‘off’ time – it’s ‘do what feels good’ time.

 

There is a lot of buzz around the idea of hiking for decompression and the idea that the dog should be trotting around sniffing and being chill.  That’s great, and some dogs love that. My dogs get a lot of decompression time in their day-to-day life, and I agree that it is important, but it’s not the only reason to hike.

Use That Body

Dogs, particularly active breeds, need physical activity and challenges. I can play fetch or tug, but those activities are too intense to play for extended periods. I’ll break my dogs if I play disc for two hours straight, but I have no qualms about hiking my dogs for 2 or 3 hours.  On a hike, the dog’s body and mind tells them what to do, when to stop, and when to lie down in a puddle.  I have one dog that I watch closely as he gets racy when he is tired – I watch for that and long line him. He’s a higher intensity dog and he sometimes runs harder when tired instead of slowing down.  This is when knowing your dog is important so that you can help them if they are making poor choices.

Balance

A lot of dogs have the need to challenge their bodies just as much as they need to eat, sleep, and drink water.  When we don’t meet this need, we can see a lot of other behaviour problems such as leash reactivity, bullying of other dogs, and destructive behaviour.

There aren’t any recipes or ‘one size fits all’ plans in dog training. Watch your dog, figure out who they are and what they need. Think about balance and be sure you are working both their brains and bodies and teaching them how to be patient and calm when needed.

    Relaxation Protocol

    Relaxation Protocol

    by | Aug 1, 2022 | General Training, Reactive, Aggressive, or Overexcited Dogs

    Relaxation Protocol

    DOWNLOAD PDF VERSION

    Relaxation protocols will help your dog navigate many aspects of life, especially when what we want goes against their instincts.  These protocols will teach your dog to relax and in place when you move about the house, when a visitor arrives, and when you take your dog out in public.  Setting the stage right away for energy control is important. Teaching a dog to relax and be “off duty” is one of the kindest and most useful things we can do for our pets.  

    Settle

    A settle is like a down but with a hip flopped over and it has an implied duration and calmness.  You can shape, capturer, or lure this behaviour to start, depending on what works best for your dog’s personality and learning history.   

     

    Tip: Place the treats on the ground rather than feeding them to your dog’s mouth. This helps magnetize your dog to the ground rather than keeping their focus up to your hand or pocket.

     

    We will never ask for a settle and then ask for an explosive fast behaviour.  For example, we wouldn’t use settle while playing fetch because the expectation for the fun chase will change the energy state of the dog in a settle.   If you are playing with multiple dogs, you can use a settle to help one wait.  When it is that dog’s turn call them to you and ask for a sit or other behaviour before you begin fetch.

     

    Settle will be your dog’s job when you are vacuuming, when you stop to chat with a neighbour, when a friend pops by to drop off cake, etc. Pay your dog well for this game! Put a lot of value in teaching your dog to relax and you will have a lovely dog who you can take to a friend’s BBQ, to the hardware store, to the bank, or anywhere you like. 

    Treats

    You will use a lot of food to train your dog to relax.  You can use your dog’s meals to train or other healthy treats. Use treats that are medium or lower value to keep the energy level down.  If your dog isn’t keen on training for food, choose something exciting enough for them to want to play training games. Consider asking for help to train food motivation as this is a common issue that we help people work through.  Although we train many skills using toys, toys are not appropriate reinforcers for relaxing as it encourages excitement rather than relaxation.

     

    Examples:

    • Kibble if your dog eats kibble

    • Carrots, Peas, Sweet Potato, or other veggies

    • Beef or lamb lung

    Markers

    As you complete each step in the protocols calmly say “good” then reach into your treat pouch or pocket and deliver a treat by placing it onto the ground in front of them.   Some people choose not to say “good” and that is ok too, the best method depends on your dog’s training history. We advise you not to say “yes” or use a clicker however, as these markers are often paired with upbeat, fast, fun games and can affect the energy of the settle.

     Ideally, use a treat pouch or easy to access pocket rather than holding the treats in your hand. This little tip will help transition your dog to listening when you don’t have treats on you and it also helps keep excitable or food crazy dogs a little calmer.

      Talking To Your Dog

      Please talk to your dog as you work through the protocol if it feels natural to you. Chat with your dog as you might a young child, explaining what you are doing. It is amazing how much talking to them helps some dogs stay calm.     You can read more about talking to your dog here: “The Mr. Rogers Hack”

        Mat or No Mat?

        Some people will choose to use a mat or dog bed when training this protocol.  A mat is handy as you can take it with you when you train in new locations and the presence of the mat helps your dog clue into the game a little faster.  However, the end goal is typically that you don’t need the mat.  Without a mat, you will take more time to help your dog in new locations. If you use a mat you will need to fade the mat out of the training later but the best option varies dog to dog.  If you have a very anxious or excitable dog, of if your dog does not like to lie down on cold or hard surfaces, the mat is likely a good option.  Raised dog beds, bathmats, and towels make great relaxation mats.

          Error Handling

          What if your dog gets up during the protocol?  Mistakes happen, don’t sweat it.  Simply ask your dog to settle again, feed them, and move right back to it.   

          If your dog gets up once you have two options.

          1. Try the exact scenario again, in case it was just a simple mistake.
          2. Move back a step or two and start again where you know your dog can succeed.

          Dogs don’t need to make mistakes in order to learn. My preference for error handling is to move back enough steps that you know your dog can succeed, building up confidence and motivation.

           

          What if your dog gets up twice in a row? Now we really need to be proactive in building confidence and understanding. I suggest you go back to the very beginning of the Basic Protocol.  If your pup is still struggling, it is ok to go for a long sniffy walk for you both to decompress, then try again tomorrow.

           

            Credit: Dr Karen Overall

            Dr Overall created a Relaxation Protocol that was and is used by trainers all over the world. Along with her other work, it was a fantastic tool for many of us. We have written these updated protocols, based on Dr Overall’s work, to suit our current needs with our students as well as our own dogs. https://www.karenoverall.com/

              Basic Protocol

              Begin with this protocol and advance it as your dog’s level of understanding increases.  Keep the error handling protocol in mind and reinforce many easy reps to keep the momentum going and to build value in relaxing.

              Settle for 2 seconds

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle for 3 seconds

              Settle while you lift one foot off the ground

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you take one step

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you take one step and return

              Settle while you clap your hands lightly once

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle for 3 seconds

              Settle while you take 2 steps and return

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you take one step, count to 3, and return

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Keys to adding difficulty while building strong, confident behaviours

              • Always sandwich challenging reps with easy ones. I.e. If 20 seconds is new or challenging for your dog, practice a 3 second rep both before and after the 20 second rep.
              • If you add a distraction such as a friend sitting on a couch, start over from the beginning.

              Take It On The Road

              Practice the Basic Protocol at home, in the yard, on your walks, in the park, and anywhere you regularly take your dog.   When the distraction level increases by training in a new environment, be sure to start the protocol from the very beginning or as far back as needed for your dog to be very successful.   

              Teatime Protocol

              This protocol is written to help your dog relax in place while you make a cup of tea. This can be modified to include any routine task such as asking your dog to relax while you:

              • prepare their dinner,
              • give medication to another pet,
              • feed the cat, etc.

               

              Begin with the Basic Protocol. Once it is easy, split other daily tasks into small pieces.  Splitting big tasks into small achievable tasks is the key to building strong behaviours.

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle for 15 seconds

              Settle while you take one step and return

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you take two steps and return

              Settle for 7 seconds

              Settle while you take three steps and return

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you take three steps, touch the kettle for 1 second, and return to your dog

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you take three steps, pick up the kettle for 1 second, and return to your dog

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you take three steps, pick up the kettle, take 1 step towards the sink, and return to your dog

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you move to the kettle, pick it up, move to the sink, and fill the kettle, then return to your dog

              Practice over multiple sessions, only advancing as fast as your dog allows. All dogs learn at different rates, so be patient.  Move slow enough that the process has very few errors. This will build a strong, relaxed end behaviour.

              Visitors at the Door Protocols

              These protocols are written to help your dog relax in place while visitors arrive.  Begin with the Basic Protocol and the Teatime Protocol.  If the protocols as written are too challenging, break it down into smaller pieces with less duration or less intensity. The right protocol is the one that sets your dog up for success.

              Choose a location to settle your dog that is ideally within view of the door, but at least 10’ away. 

              Train this when you do not have actual visitors. Manage real visitors by putting your dog in a crate or bedroom when they arrive.  Once you have completed the protocols, have visitors enter and get comfortable seated, then bring your dog out on leash and practice the Basic Protocol, working up to practicing when visitors arrive.

              These protocols are not a behaviour modification program to address fearful or aggressive behaviour from your dog when people arrive. Instead, it is a foundation on top of which a behaviour modification program can be built. If your dog has aggressive or extremely fearful behaviour when people come to the door, please ask for help from a certified professional.

              Practice this protocol over multiple sessions, increasing either the length of time that the door is open, or how far you open the door. Do not increase two criteria in one repetition.   

              For safety, you may tether your dog so that they cannot run out the door. A baby gate between your dog and the door is another great option.

              Door Opening Protocol

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle for 15 seconds

              Settle while you take two steps towards the door and return

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you take three steps towards the door and return

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, touch the door for one second, and return to your dog

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, touch the doorknob for one second, and return to your dog

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, open the door 1” for 1 second, and return to your dog

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, open the door 1” for 5 seconds, and return to your dog

              Settle for 7 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, open the door 3” for 1 seconds, and return to your dog

              Settle for 5 seconds

               

              Practice this protocol over multiple sessions, increasing either the length of time that the door is open or the intensity of the knocking. Do not increase two criteria in one repetition.   

              For safety, you may tether your dog so that they cannot run out the door. A baby gate between your dog and the door is another great option.

              Knocking (Doorbell) Protocol

              Before attempting this protocol, complete the Door Opening Protocol and comfortably be able to ask your dog to settle while you fully open the door for 20 seconds. If the protocol as written is too challenging, break it down into smaller pieces with less duration or less intensity. The right protocol is the one that sets your dog up for success.

               

              This protocol is written for knocking at the door, but anytime we write ‘knock’ you can substitute ‘ring the doorbell’.  You will not use your actual doorbell to start. Instead, either use YouTube to find doorbell sounds, or record your own doorbell on your phone.  It is important at the beginning to control the volume of the doorbell, which you can do using your phone and YouTube or the recording.

               

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle for 20 seconds

              Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, touch the doorknob for one second, and return to your dog

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice, then pause for 1 second before returning to your dog.

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, open the door fully for 5 seconds, and return to your dog

              Settle for 20 seconds

              Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice, then pause for 2 seconds before returning to your dog.

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you knock a little harder on a wall or table twice, then pause for 2 seconds before returning to your dog.

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, open the door fully for 20 seconds, and return to your dog

              Settle for 7 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, knock lightly and return to your dog.  

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table, walk to the door, open the door for 2 seconds, and return to your dog.  

              Practice this protocol over multiple sessions, increasing either the length of time that the door is open or the intensity of the knocking. Do not increase two criteria in one repetition. 

              For safety, you may tether your dog so that they cannot run out the door. A baby gate between your dog and the door is another great option.

              Talking Protocol

              Before attempting this protocol, complete the Knocking (Doorbell) Protocol and comfortably be able to ask your dog to settle while you knock loudly, walk to the door, and fully open the door for 20 seconds.  If the protocol as written is too challenging, break it down into smaller pieces with less duration or less intensity. The right protocol is the one that sets your dog up for success.

              Think about the phrases you are likely to use when you have visitors. Use your natural language in the protocol rather than the generic ones we include.

               

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you say “Hi! Come on in!”

              Settle for 20 seconds

              Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, open the door for 5 seconds, and return to your dog

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice, say “Come on in!”, then pause for 1 second and return to your dog.

              Settle for 10 seconds

              Settle while you knock, say “Hi Joan!”, walk to the door, open the door fully for 15 seconds, and return to your dog

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you knock lightly on a wall or table twice, say “Hi Bob!”, then pause for 2 seconds and return to your dog.

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you knock a little harder on a wall or table twice, say “Come on in!” then pause for 2 seconds before returning to your dog.

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Settle while you walk to the door, open the door fully for 20 seconds, say “Hi, thank you for the pizza!”, and return to your dog

              Settle for 7 seconds

              Settle while you knock, walk to the door, open the door fully for 20 seconds, say “Hi, thank you for the pizza!”, and return to your dog

              Settle for 5 seconds

              Surprise!

              Once you have completed the protocols, integrate the surprise factor. When your dog isn’t expecting training, knock or speak to an imaginary visitor, ask them to settle on their bed, and rehearse a few repetitions. Practice this no more than twice a day, and balance it with non-surprise sessions.

              DOWNLOAD PDF VERSION
              Talk To Your Dog

              Talk To Your Dog

              by | Aug 1, 2022 | General Training, Reactive, Aggressive, or Overexcited Dogs

              Have you had a trainer tell you not to talk to your dog so much?  Or maybe you have seen a meme floating around recently telling people not to talk to their dogs?    Sometimes I agree.  If you are training focus or verbal cues, you likely don’t want to clutter things with unnecessary mumbo jumbo.   However, talking to your dog about what is going on in the world, the plan for the next little bit, etc. can be a great help for anxious or excitable dogs.  

              Plus, it’s kind of cool when our dog knows words. Many dogs know “walk” or “dinner” or “ball” because those words are said in association with the activity on a regular basis.  Check out this great PDF on “The Mr. Rogers Hack” i.e. talking to your dog similarly to how Mr. Rogers talked to young children.